Category: Cambodia 2018

Koh Kong – Trat 108km

So it was farewell Cambodia and we cycled the 11km to the Thai border. We have done a few land border crossings in Asia and this would be the most chilled out place. Still amazing seeing the comings and goings between the 2 countries but not a scam or scammer in sight. 45 minutes later we were stamped out of Cambodia and into Thailand.

Well Hello Thailand. How clean you look and the roads are modern and pot hole free.

So we got the pedals turning and rode the undulating hills for 10km into Hat Lek super excited that we may find a 7/11 as we were salivating over a sausage and cheese toasty.

In no hurry today as we only had 43km to ride we pottered around exploring the cute fishing village of Hat Lek.

Riding HW3 in Thailand was a bit of a mission as it is currently under repair to expand to a multi lane HW, so it was a pleasure to turn onto the coast road and have it to ourselves.

We then arrived after the 43km at the Panan Resort. When we are biking all our info of where to stay is either off Maps.Me or Google maps or reading the other handful of cycle tourist blogs. Having read this German guys blog who was one month ahead of us we were super excited about getting to the Panan Resort. Well I don’t know what hoochy mama he’d been smoking as there was more flora and fauna growing inside the room than outside. There was no way in hell we were going to stay in that rubbish dump, we let out a few expletives at this unknown German. A few deep breaths as we summed up our options and realised it was back in the saddle for another 64km to the town of Trat. It was only 11.30am but the temps were pushing 37deg and humidity 400%! Back on the HW3 and more road works, hills, hills and more hills. Hardly any drink or eat stops available so thank goodness for that toasty! Found an ice cream along the way and tried to keep the fluids in but impossible.

3.30pm we rolled into Trat absolutley exhausted and realised that was definitely our toughest day this journey. Thank goodness we had done a bit of research prior on where the guesthouses were in the town of Trat. We got ourselves some top digs for the night went to 7/11 to get a beer…………………..and what do you know they don’t sell beer as they are beside a school. This was the one that almost broke us, until we found the little old man selling beer out of his house. He was like seeing Father Christmas and good to see our old friend Leo again.

So we are now 2-3 days ahead of schedule with our monster day yesterday. We have had a good look around town today exploring this cute town and will stay a few days as we don’t want to get to Bangkok too early. We do have to depart our posh digs tomorrow as they are booked out.

Not the planned arrival into Thailand but we can’t believe how much cleaner it is, the roads are perfect, people actually sit in their cars with seatbelts on and are super courteous.

Has been a great couple of days R & R chilling out in Koh Kong but after 28 days in Cambodia, with only two days left on our visa it is time to say Goodbye.

There is no doubt that our impression of this wonderful country has changed from our negative first impressions of it 12 years ago as we rushed through Siem Reap and Phnom Penh tourist spots on a bus like most backpackers carrying an oversize backpack.

How different you see a place on 2 wheels fully immersing yourself into the daily lives of the most wonderful and friendly people we have come across. A country that has gone through so much in recent decades. One thing that stood out to us was seeing very few of the older generation, maybe remnants of the 2-3million people that were killed during the Khmer rouge regime only 35-40 years ago.

It is sad to see their prized tourism spots being sold out to the Chinese and the ordinary Cambodian people left with disintegrating roads and left to live in a pile of dust and rubbish. Oh my goodness the rubbish, we actually became desensitised to the volume of rubbish, plastic bottles and open drains of sludge.

We have had the most incredible time riding the country. The roads have been challenging with pot holes, dust and traffic but Betty and Nancy have stood up to the challenge despite a couple of flatties. Our old bikes certainly wouldn’t have survived. Prior to coming here we had read that only 20% of drivers have their drivers lincenses and after seeing them drive this may well be true. The wow factor of how many they can put in and on a vehicle and where they opt to sit was mind blowing. Cambodia is predominantly flat so was easy terrain except for HW48 and the Cardamoms which was challenging but a peaceful pleasure. We hope we never have to ride HW4 again!

The dogs are far sleepier than Thailand and only had the couple of dog chases but we have the sticks ready as we hit Thailand tomorrow.

The food was definitely challenging at times just trying to find something that we thought our stomachs could handle. It certainly doesn’t have the same choices or flavours as Thailand. Thank goodness for the pottles of “Mama Noodles” they were a bit of a lifesaver. Beer is everywhere and easier to find than food and a super tasty drop. Coffee is huge here with both their local incredibly strong brew or the odd new trendy cafe popping up serving more western style coffee and has been a highlight of our days.

So we sit here planning the next part of the journey crossing the border tomorrow into Thailand, making the almost 500km journey up to Bangkok to get our flight to Myanmar on May 14th. Hoping to find a bike shop in Bangkok to get the bikes serviced after the rugged month they have endured.

So farewell Cambodia and thank you so much for an amazing time. Your warmth, hellos and waves as we cycled your beautiful country bring a smile to our face now as we write this. We will definitely be back at some stage.

April 21 – Sre Ambel – Trapeang Rung = 81km

What a challenging but incredibly rewarding couple of days through the Wild West of Cambodia but we have nailed it. So pleased we forced ourselves to have a rest day in Sre Ambel before attacking the Mountains despite food being a challenge.

We were carbo loaded ready to start the 2 day challenge through the Mountains. We were loving being on the quiet highway 48, minimal traffic taking it all in.

After 40km we had an option to stay at Botum Sakor at one of the 3 homestays but we were both feeling great so grabbed some water and pushed on.

After Botum Sakor we hit the hills and then got caught in a storm which was actually lovely and refreshing in the stifling temps.

Smashing out the kms with more thunder and storms following us we arrived 81km later exhausted into Trapeang Rung. Super relieved that there was a guesthouse right in town. Very basic room with fan, bucket to flush toilet, no hand basin and more creepy crawlies than we have seen this trip. Just a reminder that we are in the jungle. We didn’t take much rocking and after yet another feed of pottle noodles and a beer we crashed at 7.30 in the super stuffy room.

Trapeang Rung – Koh Kong = 61km

Managed to get some sleep despite the unnerving night sounds outside in the jungle so up at 5.30am ready for what we knew would be the toughest day riding over the Cardamom Mountains.

The hills were gruelling but super satisfying as every pedal was one closer to what felt like the finish line. There were no drink stalls for 28km so just as well we were loaded up with water.

We had an option of staying at a guesthouse in Tatai at the 40km but we were on a roll and loving the tough ride. The temp was rapidly rising to the mid 30s so we wanted to keep moving. The road was probably the best we have ridden on, traffic was light and the sounds of the wildlife in the jungle were amazing. Some real tough pinches out of Tatai matched with some super fun downhill where we hit 52km an hour on our Speedo! Before we knew it we rolled into Koh Kong bang on midday. We had carved up the Cambodian Cardamom’s. Civilisation looked good and we saw the first Westerners we had seen in a few days.

After checking out a few places to stay we hit the jackpot and got ourselves the VIP suite at the Nathy Koh Kong Hotel for NZ$27. The best digs we have had in Cambodia!

So here we are 9km from the Thai border having nailed Cambodia. Going to chill out here for 3 nights and reflect on an amazing adventure in this country and start planning the next stage of the journey.

Stung Hav – Sre Ambel = 76km

A day of two halves yesterday departing the sleepy Stung Hav. Lovely rolling hills despite sharing them with petrol tankers. Still bumpy road with heaps of pot holes so much so the vibration cracked my fork mounted alloy drink bottle holder. Handy Andy cable tied it together and we were back in the game.

After the 25km we were back on the flat and greeted with the dreaded National HW4.

Was full on concentration with heavy traffic but we stuck on the gravel shoulder the entire way and had it almost to ourselves except for the odd cow and scooter. The paddocks aren’t fenced so cows just wander and generally have an uncanny sense as to when to cross the road. I had just remarked this 5mins earlier to Andy when 100m up ahead a cow wandered into the path of a car going 100km and the rest was carnage. We literally witnessed the cow flying through the air. Luckily those in the car appeared to be unharmed but shaken and the car looking worse for wear. The cow would be history and bruised beef on the menu somewhere last night.

After the unpleasant cow episode a random coffee shop appeared so we took time out in the aircon and had coffee break. For those of you that know me well know I’ve never drunk coffee however I’ve become somewhat addicted to the strong Cambodian iced coffees with condensed milk!

After 35km on crazy HW4 we were at the junction to turn off onto HW48 making our way towards Sre Ambel. Struggled to find anything edible at the junction but you can always rely on noodles and coke.

Arrived in Sre Ambel about 3pm hot and bothered and we have definitely hit the wild west of Cambodia.

Found the only guesthouse in the town and for NZ20 we have aircon and are snuggled up super cosy with Betty and Nancy.

After a cold shower (no hot water here and power cuts in and out) we went for a walk down the street. I think the only Westerners or “barang” (as they call us) the locals would see would be cycle tourists. So we hear the whispers of barang as we walk down the street but a smile and hello reassures them that we aren’t scary and before you know it you are trying to converse.

Then opposite our guesthouse is the one stop shop. Coffee, beer and noodles for dinner

So here we are taking it all in resting up for a day before hitting the 150km ride over the Cardamon Mountains. We aren’t sure yet how tough they are going to be, also the variables of the early arrival of the wet season, the heat, the availability of a bed, whether it will take us 2 or 3 days of riding. We may also be off the radar as not sure if Wi-Fi will be available. The Wild West bring it on!

Otres Beach – Stung Hav = 35km

Well we can say we weren’t sad to be leaving Otres and the feral hippies and backpackers that were hanging out there. We didn’t really fit in having no tattoos, no dreads, not smoking ciggies or lounging around smoking pot. Oh and even though we are roughing it we still have a shower twice a day, wash our clothes and wear deodorant.

So farewell to OhTrash…….and 10km down the road it’s big brother Sihnoukville aka “Shitsville”, or Chinaville it is apparently referred to. The magnitude of construction is mind blowing and the Chinese presence is huge. The rubbish is shocking, roads atrocious and Betty and Nancy bounced their way from pothole to pothole, proving a city can still provide Mt biking terrain.

Once we navigated our way through Sihnoukville we were pleasantly surprised and had what has possibly been out most enjoyable morning of riding. A delight to be off the beaten path again and greeted with friendly smiles, waves and hellos.

Lovely short day riding on quiet roads, undulating terrain and we arrive at the tiny, sleepy village of Stung Hav to be told the Guesthouse was full. Panic time but he points to another down the road which looks like it is actually closed. However we score a dirty room for the night but a beds a bed and we have a big day tomorrow.

Explored the village……

And look what we find.

One extreme to the other as across the road from coffee shop.

So one night here before a big day tomorrow. We are starting to hit the wild west remoteness of Cambodia, making our way to the Thai border.

Kampot – Otres Beach 100km

Last few pics of the delightful village of Kampot that we will definitely return to at some stage, hopefully before it gets ruined with another case of “tourism gone wrong”.

Fishing village in Kampot

We were super excited about getting the pedals turning again and were planning on a 54km trip to Khum Veal Rung. On arrival we discovered it was a shit hole junction town and the first place we went for lunch was serving offal noodle soup or chicken rice covered in flies. We declined both temptuous options and kept pedaling where we found a baguette with only half the amount of flies.

We were now on HW4 the busiest HW in Cambodia and it was chaos with it also being the final day of New Year. Which by the way seems to be the most bizarre kind of celebration where they drive on backs of trucks with water pistols shooting anyone in their sights as well as throwing flour and talcum powder. We got bombed going through one village which was a laugh and made the clothes smell a bit better!!!!

Riding with the Bokor hills to our right and glimpses of the coast to our left very occasionally. We thought we would stay in Preya Nob 4km up from the junction only to find out it was 10km up the road and once again it was a dive with one guesthouse. As we were sitting on 65km now we had the option of gutsing out staying in Preya Nob or push through to Otres Beach. We were feeling pretty good so decided to take the challenge and pushed on.

The NY traffic was heavy but seriously entertaining. We saw mini vans that had over 25 people in them with 4 hanging out the back with the roof open oh and a couple on the top next to the chickens dangling down the side. We saw sedans that had 7 in the backseat and 4 in the front and the icing on the cake was a bus belting down the HW at 100km with the side baggage compartment open and a guy sitting in it.

Or this option for the NY family holiday

Riding along with a nice tail wind we heard an almighty crash and looked behind us and less than 50m away there were 3 bodies sliding along the asphalt and a scooter in pieces rapidly shedding parts. We noticed people had stopped to help so with our lack of Cambodian language skills we carried on.
At 80km we were hot, hungry and slogging up a hill when we nearly at the summit when 6 dogs came flying out a driveway on attack. Our usual method of pedaling faster wasn’t an option as the tank was empty. Plan B of dismounting, yelling and using our bike as a weapon gave us time to subdue the dogs and they lost interest in the puffed out kiwis.

So an action packed day we slog the last hill and descend into Otres to a stall for some water and noodles. Jumped on the Wi-Fi to discover the town is almost fully booked or charging extortionate prices. They quite happily tell us “last day of NY so expensive but tomorrow be cheaper”. We weren’t fussy at this stage and after 100km of riding just wanted a shower and bed. We scored a place with only slightly over inflated prices and will stay here for 2 nights.

Laneway to our bungalow

After a quick shower it was definitely beer o’clock. Having a nice quiet beer food ordered when the owners son sits beside us and decided to treat us by blaring out Cambodian rap music at our table.

Thankfully the power went out so that was the end of the music as we sat dining by candlelight. Not exactly your fine dining candlelight experience but all the same an experience and one hell of a day, and that sees the end of the Cambodian NY festivities and our first 1000km on the clock for this trip.

Chum Kiri – Kampot = 50km

Yesterday we had a blazing ride in the rain most of the way and a great tail wind for a change. A handful of peanuts along the way and that was brekkie before we smoked it into Kampot leaving the dust in our wake.

What a delightful chilled out town Kampot is. Still a poor Cambodian town however quite a large ex pat community along with the odd hippie and backpacker mooching around but no other crazy cycle tourists in sight.

Pizza for dinner last night and 50c beers watching the sunset on the river, it was a great way to celebrate what we saw as a great leg of this journey and incredible adventure. Having ridden 830km now from just out of Bangkok through the length of Cambodia.

Where we crossed the border from Thailand into Poipet and rode the 560km down through rural Cambodia now sitting in Kampot in Southern Cambodia. We will bike the 22km out to Kep for a couple of nights on Wednesday then next weekend start making our way towards Sihnoukville up to Ko Kong (250km) on the west making our way through the Cardamon Mountains where we will cross the border back into Thailand towards the end of the month. Mountains will be a change after such flat riding so far.

Thanks heaps for all your messages on the blog, we absolutley love them despite not replying to them.

Kong Pisey – Chum Kiri = 50km

Surprisingly good sleep on the hardest of beds, felt like a slab of concrete with a sheet over it and woke to a few cockroaches on the floor, so moved on pretty quickly.

After the dusty effort yesterday we were hoping for a more enjoyable day and we got it. Lovely riding on a nice road with heaps to look at and friendly waves and smiles along the way.

Let’s get a baguette to takeaway……just that one beside the pigs head would be great thanks.

Village where we had brekkie

Arrived Chum Kiri which is a very small village but out of the countryside appears this modern 2yr old hotel with aircon and hot water for nz$20.

Certainly didn’t expect this in Chum Kiri

The family hotel owners can’t do enough for us but like most places in this part of the world have zero English but so hospitable.

Locals off to work

So a couple of quiet well deserved beers (after coffee) and a stinking hot day we then found one of the few places open for dinner and we were treated like rockstars. Phone cameras appeared from everywhere and before i knew it the girls had my phone and they had me as their FB friends!!!! No matter how remote we are Wi-Fi is available

One more day of riding to get to Kampot tomorrow before cruising it for a week or so.

Oudong – Kong Pisey = 64km

After a good night sleep (maybe our free beers last night) our Maps.Me app showed us we had 2 options of towns ahead with guesthouses, one at 40km, and one at 64km. So far it’s been accurate and off the beaten track the guesthouses are few and far between. We had ourselves a baguette for brekkie and hit the road.

We were looking forward to getting off the busy highway we were on yesterday and the day started well….

But we didn’t think we were going to be eating dust for 30km of the 64km ride. Without a doubt the traffic was quieter but holy moly what a day. Once again battling headwinds it was a tough, dusty, slow, beyond belief day.

The dusty roads below and the dry baron landscape. Would be impossible to bike these roads during the wet season and is one hell of an experience in the dry season. The thing is we are doing this by choice but this is everyday lifestyle for the rural Cambodians

At our first drinks stop we took a look at each other and were in uncontrollable laughter. Andy had gone from grey hair to being a ginga and I was nicknamed “Sooty the chimney sweep” for the rest of the ride.

Now last week I said I had never ever been so dirty but this was another level for sure, but what can you do but laugh.

Found the only guesthouse in town spent half an hour trying to get us and our clothes clean and enjoying chilling out in the aircon after a crazy day.

Strolled through the town and it would be the least happening town we have stayed in.

We have biked 730km in 2 weeks now and only two more days of riding before we get to Kampot to chill for a few days. Let’s see what tomorrow brings, as we have had no two days the same yet…….