Cows Can Fly

Stung Hav – Sre Ambel = 76km

A day of two halves yesterday departing the sleepy Stung Hav. Lovely rolling hills despite sharing them with petrol tankers. Still bumpy road with heaps of pot holes so much so the vibration cracked my fork mounted alloy drink bottle holder. Handy Andy cable tied it together and we were back in the game.

Drink stop/toilet stop in the bushes all in one!

After the 25km we were back on the flat and greeted with the dreaded National HW4.

Catching a breather before back into it

Was full on concentration with heavy traffic but we stuck on the gravel shoulder the entire way and had it almost to ourselves except for the odd cow and scooter. The paddocks aren’t fenced so cows just wander and generally have an uncanny sense as to when to cross the road. I had just remarked this 5mins earlier to Andy when 100m up ahead a cow wandered into the path of a car going 100km and the rest was carnage. We literally witnessed the cow flying through the air. Luckily those in the car appeared to be unharmed but shaken and the car looking worse for wear. The cow would be history and bruised beef on the menu somewhere last night.

After the unpleasant cow episode a random coffee shop appeared so we took time out in the aircon and had coffee break. For those of you that know me well know I’ve never drunk coffee however I’ve become somewhat addicted to the strong Cambodian iced coffees with condensed milk!

After 35km on crazy HW4 we were at the junction to turn off onto HW48 making our way towards Sre Ambel. Struggled to find anything edible at the junction but you can always rely on noodles and coke.

Arrived in Sre Ambel about 3pm hot and bothered and we have definitely hit the wild west of Cambodia.

Entrance to the town and main street
Main street outside the guesthouse

Found the only guesthouse in the town and for NZ20 we have aircon and are snuggled up super cosy with Betty and Nancy.

Who needs a ceiling fan when you can tie a desk fan to the wall with a shoe lace
The lock didn’t work so out comes the hatchet and chisel and all sorted. No lock smith here

After a cold shower (no hot water here and power cuts in and out) we went for a walk down the street. I think the only Westerners or “barang” (as they call us) the locals would see would be cycle tourists. So we hear the whispers of barang as we walk down the street but a smile and hello reassures them that we aren’t scary and before you know it you are trying to converse.

Found a snack that looked edible
A wok inside a beer box sitting on a one burner butane gas stove
The result scrummy deep fried sausage with cheese inside with chille sauce. Kind of like the old fashioned sizzlers but hey they say you can eat what you like when cycle touring.
A slab of ice loaded on the back of the moto ready for delivery

Then opposite our guesthouse is the one stop shop. Coffee, beer and noodles for dinner

2 more lucky tabs….”Free Beer”! And even selling the uni drys in XL size behind us if required!!!
View looking out from the one stop shop
The owners daughter even put on a performance for us
Total extreme the local police travel in style in their brand new Ford F150 which still has the dealer stickers on from Idaho, USA.

So here we are taking it all in resting up for a day before hitting the 150km ride over the Cardamon Mountains. We aren’t sure yet how tough they are going to be, also the variables of the early arrival of the wet season, the heat, the availability of a bed, whether it will take us 2 or 3 days of riding. We may also be off the radar as not sure if Wi-Fi will be available. The Wild West bring it on!

3 thoughts on “Cows Can Fly”

  1. Boy you are having an exciting time, sometimes I wish I were with you but I would hold you up too much, old age & all, take it easy going over those mountains. Hope you can find something other than noodles to eat soon, We will have a beer or two while watching the Broncos beat Storm tonight for you. Take care. Love Di & Reg xxx


  2. Sounds like a crazy, awesome day guys!!!!!! Btw I also had instant noodles & a cola (Pepsi max) for lunch – a well balanced, nutritious meal!!!!! Hope the mountain goes well over the next couple days – take care!!! Xxx


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